Archive for December, 2009
Subject: “Order Up” the Holidays Are Here!
Author: admin 12 11th, 2009So You Think You Can Cook
by Karl Merten
Days like today remind me of my childhood growing up in San Francisco. The fall weather matches the summer months in the financial district along with businessmen enjoying walking to and from work in suits and ties, the sound of cars honking, the occasional jack hammering in the distance and the clanging and ringing of a cable car traveling up California Street. My dad had three sandwich shops/delis in the city. He called them “The Gourmet Plate” located at 244 Battery Street and “California Sandwich and Soup” at 230 California Street, next door to Taddish Grill and what is now Perbacco. The third was located at 651 Brannon Street. Most of my favorite experiences were working in the stores with him. Much of the atmosphere that I have created at my restaurant Café 225 are a result of my recollections of the hustle and bustle of staff and guests, the business men and women dining over business meetings, the clatter of china plates, the chefs calling out to servers saying “hot food in the window” or “order up” Now Visalia’s downtown is a far cry from San Francisco’s financial district but this is as close to San Francisco as you can get without driving for four hours, I guarantee it.
With the holiday season here I wanted to share some of my favorite meals over the years. First, a stuffed pork loin with dried fruits and pecans. Slow roasted and served with a sherry and caramelized onion gravy. This was a dinner that my uncle Steve had made. It was absolutely delicious! My dad often made Turkey Breast Scaloppini growing up, thinly sliced, pounded and lightly floured then sautéed and finished with a mushroom lemon wine sauce. Always served with short wide egg noodles smothered in parsley and butter. And for dessert we were treated to California Cheesecake, you know the type with the sour cream topping. Some years ago I worked over the recipe that my mom made for us as kids and we make it as our house cheese cake. These and a selection of other favorites will grace this years holiday menus.
Pork Loin with Dried Fruits and Pecans.
1 boneless or bone in pork loin allow 1.5 inches per person.
Assorted dried fruits: apricots, apples, pears, mango, pineapples, raisins, cranberries and dates
Pecans, walnuts or almonds. It is important to know if your guests have any nut allergies
Brandy
½ to 1 Diced yellow onions for stuffing
½ sliced yellow onion for gravy
2 T butter
Procedure:
In sauté pan melt butter and sauté onions till translucent then add the dried fruits, it is not necessary to chop the fruits but I think they should not be larger than 1 inch in size. Warm the fruits in the sauté pan. In a separate pan add the nuts and toast; this will bring out a nuttier flavor to the final dish. Add them to the fruits. Now add the brandy and burn off the alcohol and reduce out the liquid. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature so that you can handle. Make a slit in the center of the pork loin from one end to the other. You’ll want to enlarge the opening so that you can stuff the fruits and nuts all the way into the loin. I find it may be necessary to cut the loin into a manageable size. Say ten inches or twelve inches at the most. Season with salt and pepper and place in a roasting pan or on a spit so that we can rotisserie roast the meat. Cook till internal meat temperature reaches 135 degrees F. then allow to rest with foil on top. The roast will continue to cook and rise in internal temperature for some time and will reach the safe temperature within 10 minutes. In a sauté pan slowly sauté onions for the gravy. Dust with flour and incorporate into the onions, Deglaze with sherry wine then pour in the defatted roasting liquids. Allow to boil for a few minutes then transfer to a blender and grind till smooth, adjust the seasoning and your ready to serve. Like any roast meat it goes great with mashed potatoes. I believe that the vegetable needs to be mild flavored so that it doesn’t compete with the pork loin. Enjoy!
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